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发表于 2009-12-2 04:49:04
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厄。。。又見這個東西。
我在漢服吧已經作過回覆﹐這個翻譯完全不行。
專名詞就是專名詞﹐怎可以亂來﹗
唉﹐痛心把我寫的書的一整段貼上來吧。
Elements of Hanfu: A glossary of Chinese terms
Headwear
Guan ¬冠: A coronal made of metal, lacquered or starched material for men that covers the hair. Uses a hairpin to secure itself on the head. Used primarily by court officials as part of formal attire. Small Guan that covers only the hair bun is considered as casual attire for high officials and royalty.
Jin巾: A cap made of folded soft or starched material that covers the hair. Does not use a hairpin to secure itself. Also refers to all types of headscarves.
Ze 幘: The inner cap worn inside a Guan as lining, but can also be worn separately. Since the introduction of Jin the term has been used interchangeably, but Ze more often to ones with a skeletal structure.
Zhan簪: single-pronged hairpin, used by both male and females.
Chai釵: twin-pronged hairpin, used exclusively by females.
Buyáo步搖: The movable part of the zhan or chai that shakes when one walks.
Parts of the Guan:
Yántí顏題: “Face Accentuation”, the bottom band of the Guan, decorated with jade, precious gem, or sewn pattern called maozheng.
Ji 笄: The large hairpin used in Guan.
Er 耳: and“Ears”, referring to the two “perks” at the top ridge of the Shan.
Liáng梁: “Ridge”. Straight ridges are ingrained, etched, or sewn as décor on the zhantong. The number of ridges on some large Guan designs denotes the official rank of the wearer.
Shan 山: “Mountain”, referring to the back plate of the Guan. Both the shan and er may made with the yanti as one piece or separately.
Zhantong 展筒: “Extending tube”, the “front face” of most Guan, and has ridges or other decor on it.
Máozhèng帽正: “Hat straightener”, a piece of jade or other precious stone, or a sewn-in design to denote the front and centre of the headpiece.
Hong紘: “Strings”, the sash that begins from the two sides of the yanti and goes down the face (behind the ears) and tied under the chin. Used for stabilizing the headwear and aesthetic effect.
Mián冕: A long board of wood wrapped in black gauze with a rounded forward edge and rectangular back edge. This is added to the top of a Guan for the most formal of occasions, such as a major sacrificial ritual.
Tianhédài天河帶: “River of Heaven Belt”, a long red satin tape or string that extends from the top of the mian down to the knees and back up to the other side in a ring, representing the round cosmos of the Milky Way.
Chong’ér充耳: “Ear-fillers”, large Jade beads connected with red string and hung down from the zhan to ear-level on both sides, reminding the wearer to “not listen to things that is not by ritual (非禮勿聽)”.
Líu旒: A series of multi-coloured jade or precious gem beads hung from the front and back ends of the mian, draping to eye-level, reminding the wearer to “not see things that is not by ritual (非禮勿視)”. The number of beads and strings differ according to rank of the wearer, with the Emperor at the most of 12 strands of 12 beads on either side.
Main body
Yi 衣: The top body wear, covering from shoulder to torso. Usually comes with sleeves.
Jin 襟: “Lapel”, referring to the piece of main fabric between the collar and central meridian.
Xìu 袖, Mèi 袂: Sleeves and sleeve cuffs. Sleeves are always designed to be at or past fingertip length. For work or casual wear, the sleeve should be at fingertip length. Semi-formal clothes should be 6~7 inches longer (length from fingertip back to wrist), and formal clothes about 16~17 inches longer (length from fingertip back to elbow).
Ling領: Collar. Despite its rounded looks, it is made from a single long strip of rectangular fabric, folded in at the edges. Collars are always added as extensions from the body fabric and not onto the fabric itself. This results in the collar “standing up” on the neck.
Qun 裙, Cháng/Sháng 裳: Skirt. Qun is used exclusively for female wear, but cháng applies to skirts of both male and female wear.
Kù 褲, Kù 絝: Leggings. The latter character also refers to a variant design that has broad leggings to appear like a skirt when both legs stand together. Still worn in the present day, it is more popularly known in the West under the Japanese term, “Hakama”.
Dai 帶, Dadai 大帶: Sash/Belt and “Large belt”, referring to the waist belt.
Pèi佩: Jade accessories hung from the waist down.
Shòu綬: Silk sashes used to hang the Pei. Although Ming artefacts present examples of Shou made completely by connected jade pieces.
Sleeves
Jian Xiu箭袖: Literally “Arrow-sleeve”, it was originally designed for archery in mind. The cuffs feature multiple sashes to tie with each other or around the wrist to make the best fit.
Zhai Xiu窄袖: Literally “Narrow sleeve”. Its design features the cuffs at the wrist smaller than the armpit width. The sleeve opening should be no wider than the wrist by 2 to 3 inches. Usually seen on casual clothes of the working class, such as the Duanda and the Ru top.
Tong Xiu筒袖, Zhi Xiu直袖: “Tube sleeve” or “Straight sleeve”, similar to above, but wider at the cuffs, at about the equivalent of the armpit opening. The sleeve opening is about 8 inches wide.
Kùo Xiu 闊袖: “Wide sleeve”, a sleeve with the cuffs opening to be significantly wider than the wrist, usually to lower-bust/waist level when laid flat/stretching out. The Shenyi's sleeves fall into this category.
Pi Pa Xiu 琵琶袖: “Pipa sleeve”: A variant of the wide sleeve, but reducing the opening and cuff size to that of a tube sleeve, sewing up the rest. The bottom seam of the sleeve resembles the shape of a Pipa (the Chinese lute), hence the name. Known today to be extra handy in storing items inside.
Guang Xiu/Da Xiu廣袖/大袖 “Broad sleeve/Big sleeve”: A sleeve wider than wide sleeve, at waist to knee-length. This design is exclusive to the most ceremonial of garb, and is seen from relics in Daoist ritual clothing, ceremonial gear of royalty, and scholars' winter Hecang coats (a garment similar to a Zhaoyi, with unsewn broad sleeves).
Pan Bo 襻膊: A long strip of fabric tied in a loop around the arms and the back, it is used to pull back the sleeves when working in manual labour.
Shoes
Xie, Lí鞋﹑履: “Shoes” and “Boots” respectively. Basically the same as modern definition, boots were historically reserved for government and military officials.
Xi舄: A type of shoe with a wooden sole and embroidered fabric extension at the toe, designed to prevent long robes or skirts to be stepped on while walking. |
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