【汉服制作研习】：软裹四角幞头复原成功！

子奚

<P>幞头，俗称“秀才巾”，源于包裹发髻的包帕，但比包帕大一些，以遮住头发为合礼。幞头从隋唐开始广泛流行，一直延续到明末，持续1000多年，是历代文人、士人阶层普遍穿着的首服。幞头起先是一块布巾官民通用，到了宋代，官家发展出用硬纱涂漆的硬裹幞头，因为固定成了帽子的形状，可以直接穿脱，故称“乌纱帽”。即便如此，民间还是以软裹为主，冬季也有戴绒布做的幞头形帽子的，但不能违制戴乌纱帽。由此看来，现在影视剧中的帽翅一晃一晃、前额高耸、闪亮镶边、直接穿脱、后面还缀两条布带的那些秀才帽，都是不符合史实的戏曲样式。幞头作为模拟乌发的首服，历来只有黑色或玄青色，上面也没有镶边（有些在前额缝了一块白玉，叫“帽正”），而那些五颜六色的影视剧幞头，同样不符合史实。</P><P>始自隋唐的四角幞头（也叫四角软巾），一直存续到明末，是最有代表性的软裹幞头之一。我们要复原四角幞头，面临的一个最大障碍，就是软裹幞头是软的方头巾裹出来的，但我们没有全发，自然没有发髻，幞头的坡度无法形成，就无法戴上。为此，我以前研制成功的假髻网巾就派上了用场，既然能完全模拟出发髻，就应该也能裹出地道的四角幞头来。</P><P>那么，怎么制作四角幞头呢？</P><P>首先，花大概18元买一块一米的黑色绵绸布，依照你头圈的大小（我是62cm），裁成62X 50的长方形。然后在长边的下面两头，摞着缝上 55cm的长带（宽3cm）和 35cm长的备用细带(宽1cm)；在长边的上面两角，成45度角缝上12cm（宽2cm）的布带，见下图。</P><P><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005625203026499.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005625203026499.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
</P><P>先照张戴巾前的照片，我的头发一般长度，很大众化了吧：</P><P><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005624225620334.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005624225620334.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P><P>不记得上次研制的假髻网巾什么样子了？见下图：</P><P><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562422595365.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562422595365.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P><P><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005624225929379.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005624225929379.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P><P>戴上网巾效果如下，注意把发根露出来。

<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/20056232131796.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/20056232131796.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213117406.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213117406.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P><P>把方布下端围在头上，在脑后将长带打一个结。上端的方布两角沿发髻自然垂下。
<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562321312470.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562321312470.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213131612.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213131612.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P><P>上端的方布两角在脑后对交，向额头与发髻之间的坡状处围上。</P><P><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213727247.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213727247.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P><P><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562520421774.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562520421774.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562520428219.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562520428219.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
</P><P>为了进一步固定和成形，把脑后备用的细布带从后到前也系在发髻前：
<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562321366911.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562321366911.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213614208.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213614208.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213623947.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213623947.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
看看背面：
<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213656736.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005623213656736.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562321373804.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/200562321373804.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
大功告成！
<img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005625204216452.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-6/2005625204216452.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />
</P><P></P>

[此贴子已经被作者于2005-8-1 22:35:44编辑过]

乌鸦

<P>考古研发的精神值得赞扬！！！</P><P>不错！！</P>

万佛朝综

<P>啊~~~~~~~~~~帅啊~！戴起来很有味道~~~厚厚</P><P>恭喜研发成功~！</P>

颠峰宋室

<P>制顶</P>

蒹葭从风

<P>怎一个俊朗了得！</P><P>乍一看像周星星，再一看——哇，司马相如啊</P>

子奚

好啊好啊，等着盼着呢

梅莊莊主

<DIV class=quote><B>以下是引用<I>蒹葭从风</I>在2005-8-1 22:35:45的o(︶︿︶)o 唉：</B>

<P>怎一个俊朗了得！</P>
<P>乍一看像周星星，再一看——哇，司马相如啊</P></DIV>
<P>哇哈哈哈~~~</P>[em44]

天再旦

周星星同学的大贴啊~~~~~顶起来！！！偶等着有机会留长发束冠[em01][em01]

共工滔天

<P>支持周星驰同学！</P>

汉唐神韵

<P>热烈祝贺复原成功。</P><P>强烈支持原创研究!</P>

子奚

<P>感谢大家的支持，奉上微笑一个...[em01][em01]</P>

邱少华

<P>真的很像我的偶像---周星星也！</P>[em02][em02][em02]

梅莊莊主

建議蓄鬚頂盔，如頭像。[em05][em02]

摽有梅

<P>手太巧了，目瞪口呆啊．．．</P><P>ou </P>

乌鸦

<P>长的像文人，怎可当武夫？</P><P>个人以为，不可，不可。。</P>

务农思艺

精彩，精彩啊[em01]

海棠盈香

帅啊，呵呵￣￣￣

汉唐神韵

好帖，非常和谐!

有飶其香

想起了大圣娶亲...[em01][em01]

大家好薯片

<P>总算见到百里奚兄正脸了,好个至尊宝啊,呵呵</P><P>假髻的制作程序可能比较烦琐,</P><P>应该有更佳填充物可供选择吧~</P>